Certified organic and natural cosmetics allow different groups of
raw materials:
1) natural substances; ncs/natural complex substances
Substances from nature (plants, restricted from the animal, biotechnological raw materials, mineral / inorganic substances)
2) natural substances / NCS derivatives (NCS= Natural complex substances)
Substances made from natural substances according to permitted methods
3) perfume and flavors according to ISO 9235
4) synthetic substances with defined permission to use
1) natural substances/ncs/natural complex substances
Natural products are used obtained as such or gained from physical processes. 4 natural sources are differentiated:
a) vegetable raw materials
The use of vegetable raw materials must come from, as far as possible, certified organic starting material / organic quality / certified organic cultivation (organic). The duty is regulated by an organic positive list (Annex 1 of the directive), the scope of which is
· quality
· availability
· reasonable pricing
Since not all cosmetic raw materials from the plants of the organic duty list are available in organic quality special cosmetic raw materials are excluded in documented cases. The organic content is calculated according to the association’s organic calculation rule SOP (Appendix 2) and can be declared as organic-enabled share on the packaging label. With the same calculation method, the proportion of natural constituents without organic quality (all Group 1 raw materials) can be determined and declared on the packaging. Alternatively, the use of plant material from certified wild collection is allowed. Only plant material that is not available from these sources may be used from conventional sources.
b) Animal raw materials
The use of substances traditionally used from live animals for the human consumption or use (e.g., milk, honey, silk) is allowed. The use of dead vertebrate raw materials (e.g. emu oil, mink oil, marmot fat, animal fats, collagen and fresh cells) is not allowed.
Animal experiments
Raw materials not used before 01.01.1998 in the cosmetics industry may only be used if they were not tested in animal experiments. Legal requirement as by REACH or caused by third parties, which have no business relationship exists, is ignored.
c) Biotechnologically produced cosmetic raw materials
Because microorganisms are just as much part of nature as plants and animals also their metabolites and constituents are allowed for use in organic and natural cosmetics. Forbidden is the inclusion of GMO in the biotechnological production of cosmetic raw materials.
d) Minerals and inorganic substances
Minerals of any form are part of nature and therefore allowed. The formation of inorganic salts, acids and bases (for example sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate …) corresponds to the processes in nature and is also allowed.
2) Natural substance / ncs derivatives
For the production of natural cosmetics also natural derived substances can be used, which are made of natural substances / ncs. Optimal is the use of organic raw materials as raw material. A compilation according to the state of the art is in appendix 4. Permitted manufacturing processes are:
hydrolysis,
hydrogenation,
esterification also with inorganic acids (Exception: halogen-hydrogen acids),
redox processes, other cleavage and condensation reactions.
About the environmental compatibility of these materials available documentation are to be collected in the product documentation file. Nature-identical substances according to these methods are allowed if nature is not sufficient as a source of starting materials.
3) Fragrances and flavorings
The approval criterion for natural fragrances and flavorings is the ISO standard 9235. In addition fragrances and flavors based on natural processes
and biotechnological production are allowed for use.
4) Synthetic substances with defined use permits
The consumer rightly expects from organic and natural cosmetics microbiologically perfect quality. The following
nature-identical preservatives can be used:
– Benzoic acid and its salts and ethyl esters
– Sorbic acid and its salts
– Formic acid
– Salicylic acid and its salts
– Propionic acid and its salts
– Benzyl alcohol
– Dehydroacetic acid and its salts
When using these preservatives, the addition „Preserved with … [name of the preservative] “ is required.
Organic and natural cosmetics deliberately refrain from:
a) non-compliant raw material groups
• organic-synthetic dyes
• synthetic fragrances
• ethoxylated raw materials
• Contaminations in much higher than in nature occurring relation. Contamination does not include the in CPR §1 sentence 2 regulated substances
• Silicones
• Halogenated organic compounds and intermediates
• Petrochemical products such as paraffin oil and waxes
• Raw materials with unknown sustainability and environmental compatibility
• Solvents, except water, ethanol from vegetable raw materials, vegetable oils, vegetable fats, glycerine from vegetable raw materials, carbon dioxide and for the extraction of defined natural products necessary other solvents, if these are removed subsequently from the defined natural substances.
• Herbal or animal materials under nature conservation without traceability in storage and production
• Cleaning and hygiene material, not corresponding to the natural way of working
b) radioactive irradiation
Germ reduction of natural products / NCS (exception: minerals) or cosmetic end products by radioactive irradiation is not permitted.
c) Nature-harmful packaging
elaborate packaging, once usable packaging, not reusable packaging materials, halogenated plastics, should be avoided
Control
Verification of compliance with the criteria listed above for cosmetic products and raw materials used are provided by independent testing institutes. Compliance with the criteria is indicated by an organic and natural cosmetics label on the cosmetic packaging and raw material containers. The labeling is limited to a single label with all statements regarding standard and organic content. A statement about the organic content is optional and may be in percentages and / or by asterisk marking within the INCI declaration. The certification company does not have to be on the packaging.
Policy Application
Organic and natural cosmetics products in accordance with this standard have to fulfill all European and additional national laws like
– (EU Cosmetics Directive European Directive 76/768/EEC until 2013)
– EU REACH legislation – Regulation n ° 1907/2006,
– EU Organic Regulation – Regulation n ° 834/2007
– Cosmetic Regulation n° 1223/2009
The concrete application of the our group standard in cosmetic products and in the production of raw materials is in detail regulated by a SOP / a manual.
„Global ethics“ criteria become mandatory for this standard after documentation and decision and are listed in Appendix 3. Currently there are the following points for discussion
GMO-free,
Waste Management,
Fair Trade, 3-world projects,
Packaging definitions,
Solvent avoidance,
Catalyst restriction,
social working conditions,
Environmental management,
certified sustainability,
Organic NCS derivatives-duty
Degradability according to OECD 301 A-F
Green chemistry rules
Carbon dioxide balance sheets
Transport expenses / regionality
energy output
water consumption
Resource awareness (mica, talc, zinc ..)
and much more.
This listing and the attachment 3 will be adjusted, as soon as the respective technical standard allows to expand the corresponding positions.
The use of this label is reserved for natural cosmetics companies with appropriate prerequisite. The approval of natural cosmetics companies to
sign usage is restricted and is governed by association internal contractual arrangements.
Annexes to our group natural cosmetics standard
our group works completely transparent and provides you with all the required documents for the standard for organic and natural cosmetics such as
- organic duty
- organic amount calculation
In return, we also expect transparency and would like to know who has access to our documents. You therefore receive all desired documents on request mail(at)our group.eu
Contact see contact form
Dr.Brunke 2007